Club 80-90 Forums

Having picked up a few sniffs about a nice alloy sump I had a little trawl around and found this site, which might be of interest to those of the Japanese persuasion.

http://www.bugat5speed.de/cms/content/view/30/53/



It maintains the volume of the original sump, allows you to re-use the original dipstick (although the pick up needs altering) and as it has cooling fins cast into the alloy the site is reporting a drop of 10deg C in water temperature.

The baffles will also help things too..... and only ~£200..... could well be the way forward. Now all I need is to find out whether it works with the SmallCar engine-mounting cradle....

i have 2 already,little bit of fiddling with a t25 cos martin originally designed them for a beetle which just hangs of the gearbox.i also have one on a beetle with wrx turbo and an rjs bell housing.
p.s the oil pickup needs shortening as well .and i think it is supposed to cool the oil by 10degrees not the water.any other info required just ask

Cooling oil, cools engine,cools runing temp ,lowers water temp above thermostat setting.

Russel at Syncro-Nutz wrote:Cooling oil, cools engine,cools runing temp ,lowers water temp above thermostat setting.

i agree its just that i dispute the cooling claims .i have 3 scooby conversions and one of them has the original sump and ive noticed no difference at all between any of the running temperatures ,water or oil .i have the same after market gauges in both t25`s.

i was just pointing out that martin says it cools the oil by 10 degrees at no time did he mention the water.(by phone dunno about the website)

The quote was off the website......

This sump is not a straight fit, as it will foul the Subaru engine mounts unless a mod is made to mounting bar.
They were made for Beetle engines that were cantilevered off transaxle.. Richard knows more.

I really don't think the claim is 10 deg C water temp. 10 deg oil temp maybe makes sense, maybe something lost in translation.

unless a mod is made to mounting bar

What mounting bar is that?

I think the normal engine mount positions have to be moved outwards, requiring whatever cross member you decide to use to be altered, unless you use the smallcar system, which I doubt would fit with this sump anyway... I'm sure it all can be made to fit - somehow.

I was going to fit one of these, a little on the expensive side, Andy at TSR had a spare one in stock, but the amount of rework I'd have to do on the engine cradle would not have made it worth it, like someone mentioned these were designed for the beetle cantilever mount.

there is very little work involved in moving bits for this sump to fit i will take pics,richard knows what is involved its basically moving the rubber mount outwards on the engine mount slightly.richards engine carrier would still work but the brackets for the rubber mounts would be a bit higher.in a nutshell it works with very little effort and i have done about 2500 miles since fitting with no probs.
p.s im a bricklayer/builder so if i can do it

diamond i wasnt having a pop and i realise you were quoting the website

What I'm after, ideally is the best short sump solution that will fit with a Smallcar mounting cradle - this mounting system appears to be by far the best mounting solution as it caters for the exhaust mounts AS WELL as the engine. The problem is that the cradle comes down either side of the engine, quite close, screwing up flaring sump possibilities.

Those who don't know me should appreciate that I'm looking for the best ground clearance on a Subaru as I will be using it off road a lot (ask Richard Jones for his experience of my driving). If I'm going to do it then it's GOT TO maintain the ground clearance of the WBX and have protection bars still fitted to it. Maybe this sounds picky to the uninitiated, but those who know me will understand my requirements

If I can't get a solution this way then I'm going to have to look further into dry-sumping the engine to get the clearance. This will be expensive and a pain in the ass, as no-one does direct-fit dry-sump kits for the Subaru (unless someone can tell me different).

One solution:
Shorten the sump yourself, instructions on the web (will forward if you like) and there's plenty steel sumps in scrapyards.

NB. They can be a bit thin, and have been known to rust through, so use thicker bottom plate.

Can add oil capacity with a cooler or external filter but same capacity as std can be maintained without (4.5 litres?) - greater risk of surge, so some sort of baffle scheme might be worth thinking about.

Welds can also become porous, so maybe get it TIG'd or MIG it both sides. The windage tray can still be used.

Thank you, Clive I know I can shorten the sump myself.

What I want to know is whether there is an off-the-shelf solution out there.

The German sump has only just come to light, so I would imagine there are further solutions available and I don't want to miss a trick with my installation.

Let's face it, it's not like it's just going to sit on a garage floor for the next decade, is it?

You may know but you seemed to be dismissing it entirely, yet you have a welder and can weld - it would let you get on and get going so to speak...

whilst other options become available, which I don't think are available now...

Mould making, protyping and casting a sump is a big investment and apart from Richard, and the one under discussion, the only others I know of are the modified steel sumps from the US and Australia, which have big 'wings' for capacity and surge protection. Have you seen the Aussie one ($Aus 500 I think) made for sandrails/buggies originally?

Have you seen the Aussie one ($Aus 500 I think) made for sandrails/buggies originally?

No, hence I'm bloody asking!