1.9DG electrics

[Bumblebee1]

Good morning everyone, after a couple of years of restoring the underside, engine bay and all drive train I got to the point of connecting back all electrics on my bus , I am talking about engine bay , I need help with some photos and details into where all wires go , when dismantling all wiring was a mess , bodged everywhere, I am having a hard time finding where everything goes, any help would be appreciated, I live in Luton, Bedfordshire, if anyone knowledgeable near by would fancy a good cup of coffee and a nice chat over it would be greatly appreciated and compensated .
Thank you all in advance, I shall try and get some photos tonight and add them to the post

[Mocki]

Morning
Engine bay loom is not that complicated , post some pictures of what you have got and im sure we can sort it out …..

[DoubleOSeven]

Haynes is ok for this. The rest we can help here.

[Bumblebee1]

[Bumblebee1]

I have connected the ignition (I think) I get fuel to (from a petrol can , new tank and still some welding to do so not keen on filling it yet) I have checked the timing and put it on TDC with the leads in the correct firing order (1432) on the first key turn looks like it wants to fire up and after it just turns quite lazy and no sign of life , I have a feeling the spark is a bit weak, any thoughts/ideas ?

[Robsey]

Your coil connections are a little baffling.

The [15] contact - ignition live to coil should be black.
There are more black wires to TCI unit pin 4
And anti-run on solenoid on the carburettor.
And manifold pre-heater thermoswitch.

But then I see another black on the opposite set of spades on your photo. ???????

The opposite spades - [1] contact should be the contact for the tachometer pulse to the TCI unit pin 1
Normally a green wire.

The lilac black goes from the other leg of the thermoswitch to the [86] terminal of the pre-heater relay.

The fat red should go from the bolt in the junction box, to the [87] terminal of the pre-heater relay.

Then another fat red should go out from relay [30] terminal to the pre-heater element.

And relay [85] terminal is a brown wire to chassis.

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The only black/blue I can think of is the oil pressure warning light switch - 0.3bar.
Sensor is hidden by push-rod tubes under the left side of the engine.
Left as if looking forward through the tailgate.

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The grey / green and the brown pair are for the number-plate lights.

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The yellow / red is correct - temperature sensor on the thermostat. For the temperature gauge.

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The blue green and brown wire pair are for the coolant shortage switch on the coolant header tank.
For the temperature shortage relay on the a pillar of the early vans.
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I hope that helps.

[Bumblebee1]

Thank you I shall print all this tomorrow morning and start the puzzle will keep you posted

[Robsey]

My pleasure...

To simplify things.

Coil -
[1] - Green wire. - To TCI unit pin [1]

[4] - HT Lead to Distributor.

[15] - Black wire - To ignition switch via main body loom.
[15] - Black wire - To Anti-run-on solenoid on the Carburettor.

(Solex shown, but 2e3 is similar)


[15] - Black wire - To Thermo-switch on the left side of the manifold.
[15] - Black wire - To TCI unit pin [4].

------------

Thermo-Switch-

[In] - Black wire from Ignition coil [15] terminal.

[Out] - Lilac / black wire to pre-heater relay [86] terminal.

--------‐------

Pre-Heater Relay - In junction box.



[30] - Fat Red - From the stud in the top corner of the junction box - Battery Live.

[85] - Brown - To an earth point on the left engine bay wall - Chassis / Ground for relay.

[86] - Lilac / black - From the thermo-switch on the left side of the cross-engine coolant pipe.



[87] - Fat red - Output from relay to the pre-heater element underneath the carburettor (middle - underside of manifold)

(Solex show, 2e3 is similar).


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Note - The anti-run on solenoid and pre-heater element are both 'grounded' via the engine block.

Same as the early coolant gauge sender, and oil pressure switch.

[Bumblebee1]

I don’t think that anyone could have explained it better than this , thank you and I believe others will find this very useful, I ‘be been tackling with the engine today trying to get it started, unfortunately I had no luck , I get a spark , ht leads in order I have fuel but it doesn’t start whatsoever, it spins like out of time with low revs and it just won’t fire up , o think it’s time to get some help to get it running, in regards to the electrical connections I shall get some nice new connectors and get to work and tidy up those wires , the explanation you gave me and the photos will probably make a kid connect all those
Thank you !!!

[lefty67]

Is your battery in good order?

[Robsey]

If you are getting sparks, and you are getting fuel, then it sounds possibly like a timing issue.
I am sure you have read many posts about setting the rotor arm to the marker for plug lead one with cylinder 1 at top dead centre.
The piston is at it's closest position to the spark plug hole.
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Unless the engine is just not cranking quickly enough.

Slow cranking could be...
Dirty, corroded cables or their connectors on the starter motor.
All the wire cores need to be clean, dry and shiny,
Same for the connectors.
For cranking purposes the big fat red wire from the battery is very important.

Don't forget the earth braid between the gearbox and the chassis under the van.
The braids get very mucky and rusty due to their location.

Or as Lefty mentioned - a weak battery.
Give it a darn good charging, or if in doubt, replace with a good battery.

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Have you tried a small amount of fuel down the carburettor before cranking.

If it now fires up, then you need to check for fuel from the jets, and also float height.. too low, and the fuel flow could be severely restricted.

[Bumblebee1]

The battery I am using I bought it two years ago when bought the bus , used it to start it a couple of times and then stored on a garage shelf till now , I didn’t change any cables yes from what was originally on the bus so I shall do some shopping tonight on the way home from work : new battery(75amps?) , new earth strap fro chassis to gearbox and new connectors for the cable coming from battery to starter, that should eliminate any suspicion in regards to slow cranking and bad earth , I get fuel as I can see squirting inside the carburettor as I press the throttle bar( automatic gearbox) and the timing I did put the engine on TDC , spark lead one aligned and after in order 4,3,2 as per books , also poorer some petrol down the carb and still no luck , I was suspecting bad timing or poor battery and charged the battery and tackled with the timing but even with full battery I still get kind of a laisy spin of the “brand new” started , I shall do all the upgrades tonight and see what happens, promise to give an update
In the meantime thank you for everything

[Cecil]

How often did you charge the battery whilst it was stored on the garage shelf?

[Bumblebee1]

Never

[ajsimmo]

I know it shouldn't stop it starting if you've timed it up right, but it would do my swede in - your dizzy drive appears to be 90° out. It was the first thing I saw, so maybe worth starting again there by moving the drive to the correct place, and resetting the dizzy?

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