1.6TD to 1.9TD AAZ conversion

[MacWilliam]

Yes indeed this forum looks empty . So I though i would repost this conversion for the benefit of future generation of mad converters....






So to answer you questions: I used standard clutch kit + spigot bearing . The clutch pedal is now very easy, perhaps too easy to operate.
I used the JX turbo and modified inlet manifold and exhaust manifold.See picture below for modification in progress.



The oil feed pipe to the turbo had to be a little reworked round the engine as the oil filter support is a tad different on the AAZ and the other one doesnt fit.
The return pipe streched a bit after a session in the vice.


The turbo support bracket got slightly modified as it was now too short.The AAZ engine block is a wee bit taller than the JX.



I used the AAZ diesel pump fitted with the accelerator lever from the JX and a doctored fitting for the cable. The idea is to lower the lot. Tomorrow i'll see to the lid, but it wont require much modification
Mdf template and hole cut wuth bearing guided router bit





Brass plate glued in rebate with resin = no intrusion in my Bed!



Remember you'll need to order o rings for the two sensors holders (mine are leaking ) JX ref
Gasket for the oil filter holder AAZ Ref
rubber gasket for oil cooler AAZ
Sump gasket JX
Sump to fill pipe gasket JX
Timing belt and tension adjuster
oil filter
Rocker cover gasket if you are going to time the engine with it open
Plug from Simon for the side of the engine where the azz turbo lub return was originally
alternator belt
power steering belt
Crankshft end bolt( a must as this is a strecher bolt, it can only be used once . Tightened at 90 newton + 90 degrees)
fly wheel bolts for the same reason . I reused the old ones cos i forgot to order. It is a tad less vital though
Six allen screws for the clutch
Gasket for exhaust manifold x 4
Gasket for inlet manifold x 1





Power steering fluid
Coolant ( 8 litres)
engine oil 4.5



remember to doctor the original jx oil guage to fit the aaz . fill 4.5 litres rev the engine a bit.stop and let things settle and then adjust by cutting the guide tube until you get a "full " reading. You will need to keep a bit of the aaz one as a sleeve at the point of entry in the engine. just redrill it to open it a bit.

I'll add more when it comes back to mind



more pics


bang goes the immobiliser

thats better.
N0 1 ( stop solenoid) and 2 ( advance for cold start )get connected together

3 and 4 are left unconnected

[HarryMann]

Well, some great information in there Mac, thanks. Let's hope we can get this into a web site fairly soon...

I run an AAZ, strong, but breathes a bit more than a really good one and its oil pressures are a bit lower than they should be (hence use 20W-50, which about keeps the buzzers and lights off)

One area that you haven't addresssed specifically there, seems to be this business of the cambox breather/oil separator allowing what can be large amounts of oil down that tube that runs into the inlet upstream of the turbo.

The classic problem that seems to occur, is after a period at high power on a straight road, and then a prolonged right hand corner (e.g. a roundabout), oil that has been hanging around somewhwere up there is slung out and into the inlet, the engine running on it, detonating and smoking like a good 'un (and haring off dangerously despite foot off the gas).

Agreed that several things conspire here, but looking at the original JX camcover, with the breather outlet being from a raised platform, indicates that this might be one fix.

Tjis might reduce the likelihood of oil flowing out into that tube, when cambox can't drain back fast enough, or the engine lean and centrifugal force conspire together.

(This seems to partic. occur when the oil level is a bit high, though have heard now of three other AAZ's that have done this, which can destroy the engine.

Copying the JX one would require a cut open and re-weld of the AAZ cambox (distortion?), so considering a bean-stalk solution, raising the separator up a bit more, but does need a good support.

Then there's the question of where have you indexed the turbo, to give oil feed and outlets - Directly top and bottom?

Cheers

[MacWilliam]

HarryMann
Wasnt aware of all that although i did notice the bump on the jx camshaft cover. I simply refitted the jx breather . There is a flange inside the AAZ camcover though which should help. I am also a bit shy of fast right hand cornering with all the weight of a LHD T3 on the "wrong " side of the camber. May be that 's the reason i am not aware of this.
And I am not sure what you mean by indexing the turbo! It went back where it came from, on the JX exhaust manifold with the same oil feed and outlet pipes. The poor bugger probably doesnt even know its on a different engine!

I have 15w40 in the engine. Going down to Edinburgh for a wedding at the weekend. That should test it for oil problems. But i'm sure it'll be better than the 600 miles per gallon i was used to! I dont think my van is fitted with a buzzer as i have never heard one even when the pressure was low on the very last JX trip all the way back from Bude (700 miles)

Well, just repaired the w connection on the alternator. Trying to fix the rev counter which has never worked...Thats sorted but i now have the buzzer i thought i never had!!!!........ fn constantly......

[HarryMann]

Yes, that's the bump, excrescence or whatever we shall call it.. and there is a full length built-in splash plate under there as you say, and would help - perhaps its a bit more blowby than normal brings this runaway engine syndrome on, and any more than 4.5 liters in those sumps definitely makes this worse
Are you running the 'windage tray', crankshaft splash plate combined gasket or have you chucked and gone for the simple gasket?

I wouldn't worry too much about lean angles, we had my DoKa over at 40 degrees or so at last weekends off-road meet, and that probably sits higher on its suspension by a fair margin.

This too was the situation earlier this year!


My turbo's oil supply comes in from about 10 O'Clock (viewed from the rear) and exits about 4 of the clock. Simon Baxter, who viewed the above incident, which minutes earlier produced a detonating running-on engine and fillled a lovely lane with a large smokescreen (and then some) due to the lean, suggested that this configuration creates a well in the turbo's bearing housing full of oil and may contribute to the problem. As the parts of the turbo can be bolted together in a variety of positions ('re-indexing' seems to be the term in use) this can be re-arranged so the oil feed is more nearly vertical and the outlet directly underneath, thus only creating a well of oil when cornering or leaning, rather than when on the straight and flat - possibly a better compromise, as the oil in any bearing housing/well, despite being more plentiful, would be prone to overheat if it hangs around there longer.

My conclusions to date - 4.5 litres and not a drop more is important, so a good tip there on shortening the dipstick tube accurately.

A good engine with little ring wear and low blowby, obviously, is good. But I've heard of this happening on others that presumably were not as bad as mine (which is not tooo bad!)

These engines are MIGHTY STRONG!

[andyel]

The windage tray is a lot thicker than paper gasket and needs longer bolts really.
Depending on oil pump type it doesnt fit over fitted pump-so you fit pump,try to fit tray,remove pump,fit tray,refit pump!
Bolt engine to box,find bellhousing to sump bolts misaligned.
And they arent cheap,£20 plus.
(This is an edited version of my dealings with said tray,it now lies in the garden,wherever it landed,perhaps Ill find it with the mower some day)

[HarryMann]

hehe, mw too!

Mines in the garden too, was originally fitted, so it must fit somehow, but due to aforementioned shorter screws, some t0$$£r had stripped a couple of them or left them dangly dangly, but no leaks.

Since acquired a set of the slightly longer ones, as thought tray might help sloshy, sloshy, splashy, splashy in de sumpy - and minimise oil mist being breathed up into cambox and out the separator...

Anyway, liked your freehand edited picture of the connections to short and leave open. Not sure what the immobiliser is what the crack is with it.

Would it be OK to get this copied across to a website (Syncro Tech for starters, then the new club80-90 one)? If so, any more piccies (marked up or not) and explanations would be welcome...


My wiring's an absolute mess, can't get it all back in the fuse box, so someone was in a hurry to install it!
Mine also decides to idel at different speeds depending on ? 1500, 800, and when it thinks 500 is about right, the rattling from the spigot shaft/bearing (I presume) is a bit worrying. I need to know a bit more about the vacuum connections into the injection pump - apparently, mine had an intercooler (big) and throttle controlled enrichment switch wired up.. it was removed before engine re-fitting to my syncro from a 2WD camper.

Thanks

PS. Seems we've taken this subject over... Louey is another who's done this upgrade succesfully.

[Diamond Hell]

Louey's is 1.9NA, not AAZ, so a lot simpler.

[Louey]

Louey's is 1.9NA, not AAZ, so a lot simpler.

I hope you mean the engine Thomas

[HarryMann]

I think I get about 25mpg too... 1850 Kg Doka; 5.43 diff; 70ish where possible, but big knobbly tyres

Here's the 3 wheel technique (at this point, not a lot of oil left, but she's still going,better than ever, actually) -very smokey at startup, then diminishes after a couple of minutes.

[MacWilliam]

Hi everybody!
No i didnt even try to fit the dish in the pan I just used a brand new gasket. On this point i would recommend using the bolts that came off the AAZ rather than the allen ones of the JX. they are more accessible with "standard tools " as they have to be tightened in situ.

Just back from a wedding in Edinburgh. Verdict 25 miles per gallon i think ( 10.7 litres per 100kms) going all the way down at 100/120 kms/h
Lovely acceleration for overtaking . Will try to improve mpg with Zen driving technique
JX on its way out was (9.7 litres per 100kms) + 0.5 litres of oil

AAZ Zilch, nada , bugger all!!!!!! All the oil is still where it should be.. in the engine mmmmmmmmhoua. Yeppeee

After another spell of zen driving got the AZZ on the wrong side of 30mpg.
Still not one drop of oil.....

And by the way i do understand why you might have problems with oil in the turbo!!! you are driving on two wheels!!!

[MacWilliam]

Some update on the subject!
Since the aaz swap, life in the drivers seat has been great. 25 000 kms on the engine is behaving itself and the only oil problem i seem to have is smoke at start up on a cold engine and a leak on the cylinder head cover which i dont seem to be able to cure. i have used a new rubber seal dry, the same seal with compound and it still leaks. and the oil drops on the turbo and it stinks. The reason is that the cover is only held in place with three bolts placed centrally instead of a good few more on the perimeter.
I 'll welcome advice on how to cure this problem.

[HarryMann]

Try another cover, maybe your present one is distorted?

AAZ still going well, in fact better than ever.
Concurr, low oil consumption, small smoke when started cold, o/wise, looks clean.

Overboosting really works well, with a wee bit of overfuelling... cruising at about 10~11psi and another ounce on throttle and she's up to max boost I've set it at, 12.5~13.5 psi.

23mpg, 25 or slightly more when trying, likes cold wet weather, damn sure i couldn't get 30mpg without spending all day on a short journey!
This is a draggy Syncro Doka on block tread Macho tyres...

70mph (true) = 3800 rpm
75mph (true) = 4100 rpm

Likes 67 mph it seems at about 3600 rpm on the long haul. Can hold 60 up most dual carriageway or motorway inclines.

[Diamond Hell]

60mph on dual carriageways?



2 words. See ya.

I would have thought that the smoke on start up is caused by slightly leaking valve stem seals - shouldn't be too much of an issue for some time if it's only a little bit of smoke.

It's unusual for the rocker covers on AAZs to leak. The 8 bolt ones from the JX an earlier engines love to leak as they distort easily, but with your (much better) 3 bolt fixing it should be oil-tight. Swap it out.

[HarryMann]

Can hold 60 up most dual carriageway or motorway inclines

Swap it out

Whats this swap it out lark, thought you despised using 2 words where one will do?

Are you working next Tuesday - need someone to deal with this...

http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7234

[Diamond Hell]

Swap it out more accurately describes the required action.

Holding 60 up motorway inclines still makes it sound like it's down on power - that puts you only very slightly above lorry speeds.